Transformers are AC, and used for Halogen Lighting.
Drivers are DC, and used for LED Lighting.

There are two types of LED, Constant Current, and Constant Voltage.
Constant Current, are typically 350mA or 700mA - we have different drivers for these types.

For Constant Voltage, we have Dimmable and non-Dimmable
For 12V Dimmable, we have:
12W, Model Number: EV-12V-1000-12D
26W, Model Number: EV-12V-2200-33D
48W, Model Number: EV-12V-4800-60D

For 24V Dimmable, we have:
48W, Model Number: EV-24V-2000-60D

Max length from driver output (typically 12V) to the last LED is typically 60ft.
This depends on the cable thickness (Gauge) which affects resistance (R), and the Power (W) drawn by the load.
Cables with a thicker Gauge have less resistance, and therefore longer runs can be used.
See the following Table: (i.e. 60ft@60W of 12/2 is OK, 60ft@100W of 12/2 is NOT OK

	distance (ft.)	60	120	60	120
	wattage (W)	60	60	100	100
	Voltage (V)	12	12	12	12
Gauge	Resistance (KR/ft.)
12/2	1.588	2.4	3.4	3.1	4.4	Voltage drop(V)
10/2	0.999	1.9	2.7	2.4	3.5	Voltage drop(V)
8/2	0.628	1.5	2.1	1.9	2.7	Voltage drop(V)

Yes, as long as the total load is less than the driver output.
i.e. 10 off 5W lamp = 50W, and can be connected in Parallel to a 60W driver.

LED Flex strip has a given Power (W) / ft.
i.e. 5050 based single color (i.e. Model Number: EV-ST-NWP-WHT) is approx. 17-26W per 16ft reel, or 1.6W/ft., so 7ft =11.2W, and can be connected to a 12W driver.
a full length 5M, 16.4ft reel can be powered from a 26W driver (i.e. Model Number: EV-12V-2200-33D)

Certain lamps are Constant current, and need a fixed current, usually 350mA or 700mA.
Unless specified as Constant Current, all other lamps work fine from Constant Voltage (Typically 12V).
Low Voltage Flex strips are 12V constant voltage.

Halogen Transformers are 12V AC.
Most 12V DC ONLY LED will not work at all, or will flicker on an AC transformer
If you need to use a transformer, then you need to purchase a Rectifier bridge, to convert the AC to DC. Most Eversale 12V LEDS are 12V AC/DC which means they will work fine on a existing landscape 12V AC transformers.
Since most Landscape transformers have multiple outputs settings, and for long length / run installations, you may need to increase the AC output to 15V, which allows for the 1.4V voltage drop of the Bridge to provide a 13.6V output for DC.

The 60W (Model Number: EV-D12060-A) and 105W (Model Number: EV-D12105-A) Transformers are Electronic. This means that they have built in Over-Current, Over-Voltage, Over Temperature protection and therefore will not output ANY voltage until it detects a valid load.
This Load needs to be Halogen or Incandescent ONLY, and will NOT work with LED.
Once a valid load is applied, voltage will be output. For 60W, there needs to minimum 10W, and for the 105W, minimum 20W load.

It’s a blessing and a curse that all the RGB lamps are with the same remote control.
If they get out of sequence, then our customers use a metal pail, to cover the lamps individually, and place the remote far inside the pail, so the pail will block the RF signal from spreading to nearby lamps. We also use this approach in our landscape install, and after you get the knack, it works great.

Instructions on the control sequence are on the website, on the second page of the datasheet

Whatever mode you left in in, it always starts in that same mode. i.e. if you leave it in static green, it always starts in Static green
On the color changing modes, whilst it will start in the same mode, i.e. gradual color change, the actual color will not be synchronized, that will be based on the actual speed settings, which of course have 100 steps, and can eventually have minor difference from lamp to lamp, and therefore it will probably, eventually, get out of sequence for a color change mode.

(1) Cut the flex in the Length you require
(2) Order a AC 110V to 12V DC driver, based on the length of flex, i.e. 10ft of 5050 is approx. 16W, and will run from a 26W driver Model Number: EV-12V-2200-33D.
(3) Order a connection kit if you need to cut the strip into multiple lengths

LED Flex strip has a given Power (W) / ft.
i.e. Model Number: EV-ST-NWP-WHT is 1.6W/ft., so 10ft = 16W, and can be connected to a 26W driver Model Number: EV-12V-2200-33D.
i.e. 3 lengths of 2ft each, = 3 x 3.2W = 9.6W, and all 3 can be connected in parallel to the same 12W driver Model Number: EV-12V-1000-12D.

All the LED Flex has markings on the back side to indicate cut points and also + or -
Cut points vary by flex type, and typically ever 3 LED

yes, but you will need to order a connection kit for each piece you cut, and the total length is subject to the maximum power of the driver.

If you want to change the colors from being permanently on, then you will need a RGB controller.
For 12V flex, very popular model with discrete buttons for different colors is Model Number: EV-RGBCTRL-DIM4A
For waterproof, use Model Number: EV-RGBCTRL-4A

Majority of Flex Strips are dimmable with a dimmable driver

PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING LED CAR BULBS

Turn signal issues with LED bulbs
LED brake/tail lamps will not flash with thermal flasher units due to their extremely low current draw. Also, with stock flasher units, the turn signals may flash faster than normal (Hyper-Flash). These installations will require an electronic flasher unit, available at your auto parts store. Try to find flashers designed to work with LED bulbs, they will say "LED compatible". Often HEAVY DUTY flashers will also work with LED bulbs.
Another fix is the installation of Load Resistors which are wired across (in parallel with) the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a standard filament bulb. 6R, 50w are used for Turn signal bulbs, 25R, 25W for marker lamps.

Dash indicators reporting burnt out bulbs
LED bulbs may cause some newer vehicles to indicate a bulb is burnt out (because of their low power consumption). Some cars indicate this by increasing the flash rate of the turn signals, some turn on a bad bulb indicator. The only fix for this is to install Load Resistors across the bulbs that are being indicated as bad. Some vehicles will also disable the cruise control system if a brake light bulb is being indicated as bad, the installation of Load Resistors will also solve this problem.

Brightness of LED Car Bulbs
Standard LED bulbs are generally not as bright as standard incandescent bulbs, they have many advantages over filament bulbs (longer life, faster on/off times, lower power consumption, more vivid colors) but brightness is not one of them. They are generally not as bright but some of them with large numbers of LEDs, will appear brighter than filament bulbs. LED can appear brighter in some applications and not as bright in others, it depends on the size and shape of the bulb housing and reflector.
Most LED bulbs emit light like a flashlight, all out the end. Regular filament bulbs emit light from the end and all sides, so they will be better suited for some lighting applications than LED bulbs. This is the same reason why we do not rate LED car bulbs in lumens or watts, the numbers would be deceptively low because the light is measured from all sides and the end on standard filament bulbs but only from the end on LED bulbs

What is the difference between Warm White and Cool White?
Warm white and cool white have two different correlated color temperatures which are measured in Kelvin. Warm white (2500K~4000K) resembles incandescent light bulbs, cool white (5000K~8000k) resembles fluorescent light bulbs.

If I install LED bulbs in the dash, will the dimmer still work?
Yes, LED bulbs will dim with your dash light intensity control

Warranty Information
Do not use LED bulbs in the same housing with head lamps, the heat will cause them to fail quickly and void the warranty. We warrant all of our bulbs when if used in normal vehicle applications. We do not warrant our car bulbs when used in applications other than normal vehicle bulb installations or if used in headlamp housings or to replace GM Daytime Running Lights
Some GM vehicles apply a pulsed voltage to the Daytime Running Lights (DRL), this pulsed voltage causes LED bulbs to fail quickly, just as the stock filament bulbs also fail quickly in these DRL installations. Use in these applications voids the warranty.

Sold Individually
Note that our bulbs are sold individually, not in pairs.

The 1141 are BA15S, i.e. S for single dimple on the base of the bulb
Some RV also use the BA15D with dual bump, so please do check.

For the BA15S, since it is a single circuit, you do not need a parallel resistor for lighting applications.
Only when used for brake lights or turn signals it may need a parallel resistor.
So inside the RV, you should be fine (and we have a lot of very happy RV customers!)

For BA15S, we have several types (you can search for BA15S in the search box)
If your fixture has a cover, and you don’t mind seeing discrete LED chips on the bulb itself, then the Model Number: EV-BA15S-18 is very popular, and 250-300 lumens but has no glass dome cover, so fine for mist internal applications.

For lower lumens, i.e. 60, , with cover for vanity mirror etc., , we have Model Number: EV-LED-BA15S-CV

For covered, 300 lumens, we have the super bright Model Number: EV-LED-BA15S-CV-8W

For small fixture space, we have Model Number: EV-BA15S-7

If you have Dual Dimple, and the locate lugs are at the same height, then you have a BA15D with D = Dual Dimple.
and popular for interior lighting for RVs (Please do not confuse with BAY15D, which has an offset locate Bayonet, used for dual circuit Brake / Stop lights)

For BA15D, we have several types (you can search for BA15D in the search box)
If your fixture has a cover, and you don’t mind seeing discrete LED chips on the bulb itself, then the Model Number: EV-BA15D-1142-18-WW is very popular, and 250-300 lumens but has no glass dome cover, so fine for mist internal applications.

For lower lumens, i.e. 60, , with cover for vanity mirror etc., , we have Model Number: EV-LED-BA15D-CV

For covered, 300 lumens, we have the super bright Model Number: EV-LED-BA15D-CV-8W

For small fixture space, we have Model Number:EV-BA15D-7

LED lamps give out much more light power (Lumens) for less wattage.
Typically, this is 4X to 10X more light compared to the same wattage incandescent (standard filament bulb)
i.e., a 3-5W, 200LM LED (Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-200LM) replaces a 35W Halogen
i.e., a 5W LED (Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-5W-WW) replaces a 50W Halogen
i.e., a 5W LED A19 replaces a 50/60W Incandescent Bulb
i.e., a 8W LED PAR20 replaces a 65W PAR20 Spot

Light output is measured in Lumens (Luminous FLUX).
But due to the light fixture design, not all those lumens are delivered to the area you want to display.
Therefore, LUX is used, which is a measure of Lumens over an Area (square meter).
The difference between the LUX and the lumen is that the LUX takes into account the area over which the luminous flux is spread. A flux of 1,000 lumens, concentrated into an area of one square meter, lights up that square meter with an luminance of 1,000 LUX. However, the same 1,000 lumens, spread out over ten square meters, produces a dimmer luminance of only 100 LUX.
Achieving an luminance of 500 LUX might be possible in a home kitchen with a single fluorescent light fixture with an output of 12,000 lumens.
To light a factory floor with dozens of times the area of the kitchen would require dozens of such fixtures. Thus, lighting a larger area to the same level of LUX requires a greater number of lumens.

You need to pay particular attention to the Kelvin (K) which is the Color temperature.
There are really 3 major bands you need to consider:
(1) Warm white: 3000-4000K - provides a yellow light similar to traditional incandescent.
(2) Natural White: 4100K to 5000K - Provides a natural bright and crisp white.
(3) Cool white: 5500K to 6500K - the higher the number, the more blue tinge, similar to Xenon headlights.

No matter what your preference, the importance is to ensure in any one room, you have consistency of light color.

LED T8 Tubes can replace T8 and T10 Fluorescent tubes.
In most circumstances, the new LED tube can be directly inserted into the existing light fixture.
You may need to remove the starter if one is fitted, and for extra 10% power savings, you can remove the ballast inside the light fixture.
LED tubes are 50% more efficient that Fluorescent, last 3.5x to 5x longer, and do not have harmful Mercury!

It depends on whether your existing light fixture CAN has a lens or cover trim or not.
If fitted with a trim lens, then you can use a standard bulb shape A19. Typically 5W (for 40W to 60W equivalent), or 8W (for 65 to 75w equivalent)
If you do not have a trim lens, then consider a PAR20 for narrow cans, PAR30 for standard cans, and PAR38 for large cans (typically in very high ceilings)

MR8, 11, 16 are all Low-Voltage lamps, and require a Constant Voltage 12V supply.
a LED MR8,11,16 requires a 12V DC driver. Simply buy a driver with sufficient output (W) to power all the connected lamps.
i.e. if you have 9 x  5W MR16 (Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-200LM) which is 9 x 5W =45W, so a 48W driver (Model Number: EV-12V-4800-60D) is sufficient.

You may do for automotive applications, such as turn or stop lights, and is dependent on your vehicle.
See our automotive section of this FAQ.

Typically, a 10W to 12W LED lamp will replace a 100W Incandescent Lamp

Typically, a 5W to 8W LED lamp will replace a 60/65W Incandescent Lamp

Typically, a 3W to 5W LED lamp will replace a 40W Incandescent Lamp

Typically, a 200 Lumens, 3-5W is perfect to replace a 35W Halogen Lamp. See Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-200LM

Typically, a 5W will replace a 50W Halogen Lamp. See Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-5W-WW

If you want to set a light fixture into concrete, then you need to ensure the fixture has a plastic sleeve.
the plastic sleeve is set into the concrete, allowing the lamp to be removed for maintenance (from the top)
Very popular are Model Number: EV-WU021-RD, which are the lowest cost fixture, with plastic sleeve, and can be set directly in concrete.

You will need:
(1) Light Fixture, i.e. Model Number: EV-WU021-RD, which uses a standard MR16 lamp.
(2) An outside, waterproof driver, i.e. a Landscape 12V AC transformer
(3) Landscape wire / cable (See Gauge recommendations in the FAQ)

Note. If you have a Landscape transformer, you may need to convert to DC by means of a rectifier bridge (See FAQ)

The Model Number: EV-WU682 is a 1W LED recessed marker, which is great for decks. The build quality is sturdy, and waterproof, so fine to walk on once installed.

If you want brighter, or if you need to set in concrete (i.e. a driveway), then a more popular version is the Model Number: EV-WU021-RD, which is a standard MR16 lamp / bulb, so you can fit any colored LED you need.
i.e.
higher power 3W-5W lamp in white: Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-200LM or
very high brightness 5W LED: Model Number: EV-LED-MR16-5W-WW.

Using a LED lamp in an enclosed fixture, if not stated in the specification that it is rated for enclosed fixtures, may cause the LED lamp to flicker and will dramatically reduce the life of the lamp.
LEDs not rated for enclosed fixtures should only be used in fixtures open in the front, where the lamps lens is open on the sides and the rear, and should have at least 1/2 inch space around the circumference of the lamp.

Whilst LED chips are designed for 50000 hours, the LED lamp itself can only be used for typically 8 hours per day and usually with a 1 to 3 year warranty.
Why? due to the environment, the LED driver circuit in the lamp will generally overheat in an enclosed fixture, and the electrolytic capacitors will dry-out over time, hence dramatically reducing the life of the lamp. Hence why it is generally recommended to ensure all Lamps are used maximum 8-12 hours per day.

UL means that the product has undergone independent safety assessment in the UL lab.
You cannot self certify, and it does cost a lot of money for the test.
Therefore, any product that is used outdoor, on AC line / mains, and especially underwater should be UL certified.
Eversale stocks UL approved products for AC 110V line / mains connection for this reason.